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Laptop DIY (lemmy.zip)
submitted 2 days ago by ErevanDB@lemmy.zip to c/diy@beehaw.org

I am using an old HP Pavillion 15 to make a tablet. I have all of the internal components, and am making a shell. Does anyone know what the easiest way to make a case for those parts would be?

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submitted 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago) by bermuda@beehaw.org to c/diy@beehaw.org

So my roommate is a habitual cigarette smoker. He doesn't smoke indoors (thankfully) but he does smoke about every other night outdoors. I don't think he realizes that when he's done smoking the smell sort of... lingers on him and his clothes. Last night after he was done he was in the kitchen for a bit cooking. I came in this morning to make a sandwich and the smell was all over the kitchen and very pungent, it made me think some food was rotting. This kind of thing happens probably once a week, and while I'm kind of used to it by now I do want to have people over and have them actually be comfortable.

Apart from asking him to quit (I doubt it) is there any sort of concotion or thing I can make / spray / sanitize to get rid of the smell? Some days it's nonexistent but other days it's almost unbearable.

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submitted 1 week ago by HurlingDurling@lemm.ee to c/diy@beehaw.org

Hello everyone, I am pulling my home's existing ethernet cables from the garage and into my home to install a network rack. Currently my garage does not have insulation (for a future project), so it get's too hot during summer for my router to live there, so I want to install it in my mudroom where there is insulation. My question is if I drill a hole to put some sort of cable cover (ie. https://a.co/d/1hHosME) will it affect my home's insulation too much where I should be doing something else? If so, what should I do to improve the cable runs?

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submitted 2 weeks ago by diyrebel@lemmy.dbzer0.com to c/diy@beehaw.org

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.dbzer0.com/post/8959162

I had a rod that was threaded on one half and smooth on the other half. I needed the smooth half to be installed into brick.

method 1: chemical anchor

The normal way to do this (I think) would be to cut some grooves into the rod using an angle grinder, drill a hole that has a diameter that’s ~2mm bigger than the rod, and use chemical anchoring. But that stuff is pricey and only lasts ~1 year on the shelf. Thus cost ineffective for 1 use.

method 2: ad hoc chemical anchor substitute

Similar to the above, I wonder if general 2-component household epoxy would work as a substitute in the above method since people are more likely to have that on-hand. I suspect the issue is that it’s too thin and gravity would do its thing and the topmost area would not get filled with epoxy. Hence why I did not attempt it.

method 3: (What I did)

The rod measured at ø=8.8mm. I had no 9mm drill bit for masonry (and that would be too loose anyway). So I used a nominal 8mm masonry bit on a hammer drill. I’m not sure what the actual diameter of that resulting hole was, but it was too tight to push in the 8.8mm rod in by hand. So I tapped it in, dry (no oil or glues). It worked! It feels really solid. Feels like I got away with murder.

Questions

(method 2) Is there something could be mixed with common 2-component household epoxy to thicken it so it acts more like chemical anchor epoxy?

(method 3) Did I take bad risk with fracturing the brick? Is there perhaps a guide somewhere that safely maps brick hole diameter to metal rod diameter? Or is this something is never done and should never be done?

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submitted 2 weeks ago by activistPnk@slrpnk.net to c/diy@beehaw.org

cross-posted from: https://slrpnk.net/post/4160051

There are several DiY communities in the fedi but if we ignore the big centralized instances, there is:

Perhaps each would consider mentioning the other sister community in the sidebar?

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submitted 1 month ago by toothpicks@beehaw.org to c/diy@beehaw.org

I'm trying to learn how to sharpen scissors. I'm using a draw-filing technique. I'm not sure where I'm doing right or wrong. Anyone has any input? It's a little better than it was but it's definitely not as sharp as it could be. Gonna try attach some pics.

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submitted 1 month ago by Rambler@lemm.ee to c/diy@beehaw.org

We've got a small log burner with a light grey stone surround.

Every time I open the door to poke the logs, bits of soot fall out and mark the stone when I brush them up.

I'm getting a little worried as the house is rented, so I want to leave it in good condition.

I've tried washing liquid and cream cleaner but they just don't shift the stains.

Does anyone have any good tips that might help. I'm in UK, so products I can get my hands on here would help.

Many thanks.

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submitted 1 month ago by Pxtl@lemmy.ca to c/diy@beehaw.org

Well, the dryer has been disassembled and vacuumed, the dead coil removed, the new coil swapped in, ready to reassemble as soon as the new belt arrives. I was surprised how much of the brown shmutz in the heater was just ash from the coils - it dusted off quite shiny after I replaced the coil.

Before

busted heating element before

After

repaired heating element

I'm a little worried about the visibly duller part of the heater assembly, hopefully that won't absorb too much heat - I tried to cluster the coils a bit looser there to compensate.

It's even visible on the reverse side.

dull area where burn happened

Either way, I'm reassembling tomorrow when the new belt arrives.

dryer interior

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submitted 1 month ago by sexy_peach@feddit.de to c/diy@beehaw.org
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submitted 1 month ago by Pxtl@lemmy.ca to c/diy@beehaw.org

I feel like I have a moral responsibility to attempt to repair anything before making it waste. So I'm trying my hand at the dryer. Sadly I didnt' realize that the whole tub joint pops upwards so I detached the tub from the join and then found the join comes off pretty easy anyways.

Anyhow, everything is made of garbage these days:

Photo of disassembled Kenmore stackable washer

Photo of broken heating coil

But I think I can replace that. But while I'm in there: any recommendations on how to lubricate the tub joint? Anything else I should be replacing while I've got it apart? I noticed the tape sealing up the exhauste has disintegrated so I figure I should replace that with a strip of aluminum duct tape.

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Made a table (slrpnk.net)
submitted 2 months ago by CadeJohnson@slrpnk.net to c/diy@beehaw.org

Table top is four 50-pound bags of ready-mix grout concrete (no stone, just sand), 3m of 1m wide 1x2inch fence mesh.

Chairs were solid white upholstery. We bought them in a second-hand store and painted with diluted acrylic (to hide old stains). Waiting 30 days before I apply sealer to the concrete.

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Yes, now it looks like frankenshelf. Adds character. What do you think?

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submitted 2 months ago by Chastity2323@midwest.social to c/diy@beehaw.org

cross-posted from: https://midwest.social/post/4040473

Every once in a while, the heating element seems to break on my Gaggenau EB 378 610 oven. Other than that, it works fine.

This time though, I am unable to find a replacement part since the manufacturer discontinued it. I searched everywhere online and on eBay, but was still unable to find it.

I would rather not buy a new oven since that would be very expensive and I like this one. Does anyone have any ideas about where I can find a replacement heating element? Or am I out of luck?

It's a convection element, part #00098494, 100L

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submitted 2 months ago by pokemaster787@ani.social to c/diy@beehaw.org

Hi everyone,

As the title says, recently purchased my first house (yay), but while I initially noticed these stains in the floor during a daytime walkthrough, I realize now they're a lot more bothersome when it isn't super bright inside. Images in the attached link

I'm not moving in for a few weeks, so wondering if I can fix this beforehand (I know for a fact it won't happen at all if I wait until after I've moved in...). It's mainly this one section in the hallway and one of the bedrooms, as shown in the pics.

I did some initial research and it seems that they're likely going to need to be completely refinished, and I had a few questions about doing that myself (or would love to hear if there are other options!).

  1. How easy of a task is this for a beginner to woodworking etc.? Most of my DIY has been in the realm of tech, so I don't have any experience or needed tools. Maybe I'm in over my head here and it isn't something I can do myself.
  2. What tools/equipment do I need? I believe just a sander (any recommendations would be nice), wood stain, and sealant. Plus brushes to actually spread the stain/sealant.
  3. Can I just refinish the areas that are stained, or will it look horribly uneven if I do that? Do I need to refinish all of the flooring if I do some? (80% of the floor is this hardwood floor throughout the house, there's not a break in it or separate sections)
  4. Given the answer to 3., about how long would such a task take? I assume there's a lot of passive time waiting on stain, restaining, sealing, etc.

Thanks for any help, really appreciate any advice!

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submitted 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago) by qyron@sopuli.xyz to c/diy@beehaw.org

I need to build one that can be used outdoors.

Where can I find the schematics for this kind of circuits?

For clarification

I need to assemble a few random sound generators that can act as a sort of electronic scarecrows, but with enough capability to be able to produce sounds like footsteps, short whistles and other human common sounds.

There is no need for high definition or very wide range, as the circuits are to be placed outdoors, in a plot of land I own, and having more scattered throughout the area will be more effective than just having one or two sound sources that can be easily pinpointed.

The place is often broken into by dogs that have destroyed crops and even killed animals. These are dogs that avoid/flee from human beings and I want to use that to deincentivize them go to the place.

Ideally, these circuits are to have the smallest footprint possible, in order to be capable of being powered by a 9V battery or perhaps a small lithium rechargeable.

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submitted 2 months ago by alyaza@beehaw.org to c/diy@beehaw.org
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submitted 3 months ago by circularfish@beehaw.org to c/diy@beehaw.org

Let’s hear all about your progress. Don’t disappoint your judgmental internet buddies!

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submitted 3 months ago by JackbyDev@programming.dev to c/diy@beehaw.org

I have an unfinished basement. It would be a great place for a workshop but some hobbies don't do well in a dusty environment. Would setting up an air purifier help? Even then I'm concerned it wouldn't get the entire volume of air.

One idea is to just cover the area in a tarp (or something more permanent) while not in use.

I hate to tidy up and will very likely forget even if I don't get lazy and I don't want to have stuff get dusty because it's laying out for a while.

I assume the dust is coming from the rafters when we walk around upstairs but I'm not certain.

The hobbies are pretty varied. Electronics (like Arduinos), sewing, painting, etc. Nothing crazy like woodworking or metalworking which create their own dust though. The dust is just the normal dust you see in basements lol.

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submitted 3 months ago* (last edited 3 months ago) by Rambler@lemm.ee to c/diy@beehaw.org

I've had this Vax upright for about 5 years. Recently it's started to cut off when I'm using it. I feel the base - and it's hot. Any ideas for anything that I can do to fix it?

I'm not technically minded but I will have a go - if it will save me having to buy a new vacuum.

Edit: many thanks for all the replies and advice.

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submitted 3 months ago by smeeps@feddit.uk to c/diy@beehaw.org

Removed the awful decaying bamboo screening, and replaced rotten sections of decking boards. I wasn't able to get an exact match, so the thickness and groove pattern are slightly different. I'll probably use some spacers to level them out.

The fence I went round the other side and reattached any loose boards with decking screws.

I used the pressure washer to remove a lot of the old flaking paint, then brushed and vacuumed the old flakes away, then sprayed with a decking sprayer. Just the screwfix no nonsense garden paint and decking stain for the fence and deck respectively, really impressed by the coverage and colour and how easily it went on, even on the bits I had to do with a brush to avoid getting overspray on neighbours' fences and sheds.

Overall quite pleased with the result. It's an old deck so it'll never look new but hopefully it'll give it a good few more years.

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submitted 3 months ago* (last edited 3 months ago) by wifienyabledcat@beehaw.org to c/diy@beehaw.org

With how bad air quality has been this year, I grabbed myself a DIY AirGradient kit so I can monitor air quality in my living space. It was easy to assemble and only required a little bit of soldering knowledge. I'm definitely not proficient enough at soldering as many components ended up crooked on the board. Still works though lol.

In the picture it's running ESPHome with the configuration from ajfriesen on GitHub.

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submitted 3 months ago by piper11@feddit.de to c/diy@beehaw.org

But at least no wrinkles after ironing..

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submitted 3 months ago by Oha@lemmy.ohaa.xyz to c/diy@beehaw.org

The whole thing disassembled

3d printed a case

Parts I used

Built the entire thing yesterday and it hasnt exploded yet. Im seeing that as a win.
Capacity isnt huge but its tiny and a phone with 15% battery charge is better than one with 0

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Who else's got a wet trunk? (pixelfed.crimedad.work)

cross-posted from: https://pixelfed.crimedad.work/p/crimedad/599378498285366446

Who else's got a wet trunk?

I think my sunroof drains might have been clogged. Any suggestions as to the best way to dry it out?

#volkswagen #vwgolf #alltrack #diy

@volkswagen@lemm.ee

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Do It Yourself

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Make it, Fix it, Renovate it, Rehabilitate it - as long as you’ve done some part of it yourself, share!

Especially for gardening related or specific do-it-yourself projects, see also the Nature and Gardening community. For more creative-minded projects, see also the Creative community.


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