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Faux Wood Grain using MMU! (lemmy.world)

submitted 1 month ago by 4lan@lemmy.world to c/3dprinting@lemmy.world

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I made a magsafe mount in black for my Kia and I didn't like the layer lines on the curved parts, but it gave me the idea to try using wood

I have a 3D Chameleon MMU so I added color changes randomly throughout between two shades of brown. One is wood, one is PLA.

It honestly came out way better than I even expected!

If anyone wants the STL I can provide it!

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[-] DavidGarcia@feddit.nl 56 points 1 month ago

10/10 would grain

[-] 4lan@lemmy.world 13 points 1 month ago

When the comment is better than the post 😅

[-] DavidGarcia@feddit.nl 11 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago)

cool new extremely innovative home-made project vs low effort shit post

[-] 4lan@lemmy.world 28 points 1 month ago

Sanded and assembled!

[-] cashmaggot@piefed.social 7 points 1 month ago

Magnifique!

[-] filcuk@lemmy.zip 4 points 1 month ago

That'd a cool idea and it looks really good. I'll have to try this for myself!

[-] NaoPb@eviltoast.org 3 points 1 month ago

Wow!

[-] Tenthrow@lemmy.world 13 points 1 month ago

How much purge for something like this?

[-] 4lan@lemmy.world 13 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago)

I'll check the slicer again but it was really small. Most of the purge went into infill instead. Maybe like 5 grams?

I had my purge values low to encourage blending of the colors. I might try using 0 for purge volumes next time to encourage more natural blending.

[-] Sphks@lemmy.dbzer0.com 5 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago)

What slicer is it ? I will check if it is possible to set no purge at all in BambuStudio - since I have an AMS lite.

It looks feasible with a purge multiplier set to 0. https://forum.bambulab.com/t/setting-an-unbeatable-record-no-flush-at-all/51052/4

[-] 4lan@lemmy.world 7 points 1 month ago

Orca :)

It's pretty similar to bambu

[-] 4lan@lemmy.world 10 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago)

purge tower was pretty hollow

[-] blindbunny@lemmy.ml 8 points 1 month ago

That's beautiful and extremely creative. I should fix my printer.

[-] 4lan@lemmy.world 5 points 1 month ago

Do it!! And thank you!

[-] jjagaimo@lemmy.ca 7 points 1 month ago

Do you think printing without purge would make it look better? Or would it just blend into an medium brown

[-] 4lan@lemmy.world 4 points 1 month ago

I think better, if there was always a little bit of leftover filament the pattern will be more random I think. With more gradual gradients

[-] cashmaggot@piefed.social 6 points 1 month ago

Ah, I was trying to understand what MMU was. Then I realized off of those ridges that this was a 3D printed model. I was looking at the "marbling" and imaging it was some sort of putty or something akin to sculpey. It looks both groovy and comfy and you did a great job =)

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[-] ExcessShiv@lemmy.dbzer0.com 5 points 1 month ago

I'd love a 3D chameleon for my printer, but their shipping rate (I live in EU) is absolutely insane and unreasonable since they don't even handle import and taxes for that price.

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[-] GrayBackgroundMusic@lemm.ee 4 points 1 month ago

ooh that's clever

[-] MrQuallzin@lemmy.world 4 points 1 month ago

With Sunlu's new filament joiner coming out, I might give this a try by splicing segments of different browns together into a big roll. It's a very near concept, and your print looks amazing!

[-] 4lan@lemmy.world 4 points 1 month ago

That's a great idea! Would be such a faster print too

[-] chiliedogg@lemmy.world 2 points 1 month ago

Gist time I sliced something for my AMS lite I was flabbergasted by the increase in printing time and waste.

For those unaware, since you're often having 4 filament changes per layer, each of which take about a minute, a 1hr mono-fillament print can suddenly turn into a 36-hr print with 5-10x more filament being purged than ends up in the model.

It's really cool, but super wasteful.

But you can strategize to minimize filament changes by splitting up a model and stacking it to minimize filament changes per layer. This one only took about 8 hours.

[-] 4lan@lemmy.world 2 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago)

One reason I love the 3D chameleon is that it is easily modified in how it operates.
I have mine doing color changes at 20 seconds! It shaves many hours off of some big 4 color prints

I always Purge to infill and if there is a lot of purge material in the block I will add an object that is printed using the Purge. Something that I don't mind being stripey

[-] chiliedogg@lemmy.world 3 points 1 month ago

What annoys me and I don't entirely understand is the purge tower. If I purge to infill or another object, why am I still having to build this dumb tower? If you choose to disable the tower, it disables the purge to infill option.

[-] 4lan@lemmy.world 2 points 1 month ago

If the infill is enough to take up the entire purge volume needed to get rid of the previous color, then you are right.

Most of the time there are sections where there is not enough infill to purge what it needs to though

Since it's not a good idea to extrude filament into open space, it has to build up a structure for that later Purge. That's why it seems to make a hollow pointless Purge Tower sometimes.

Another factor is the minimum Purge amount. I think that is set in the filament settings. By default it is not zero, meaning it will always create the tower no matter what, though it might be really skinny.

If you add objects that will be created from The Purge material you should see that Purge Tower get smaller when you reslice, or at least less dense

[-] ramenshaman@lemmy.world 3 points 1 month ago

That's brilliant. What nozzle diameter and layer height did you use?

[-] 4lan@lemmy.world 3 points 1 month ago

Thank you! Standard 0.4mm nozzle, 0.2mm layers

[-] ramenshaman@lemmy.world 2 points 1 month ago

One of those two filaments is wood fill right? Do you ever get clogs with the 0.4 nozzle?

[-] 4lan@lemmy.world 3 points 1 month ago

Absolutely, I was going to use a lighter shade of wood it kept clogging on me. Do I switched to the light brown pla. I think moisture is a big component in that too

[-] ramenshaman@lemmy.world 3 points 1 month ago

You might try a 0.6mm nozzle, I know some manufacturers recommend >0.4 for filaments with filling in them.Very cool project though, you're giving me some ideas.

[-] 4lan@lemmy.world 3 points 1 month ago

Yeah I might try that next time. I have .8 and 1.0 too, but too lazy to keep swapping 😂

[-] ramenshaman@lemmy.world 3 points 1 month ago

I feel it. Those quick-swap nozzles are pretty appealing. Every time I swap a nozzle on the bambu I literally swap the entire hotend and unplug 3 delicate connectors. I'm worried they'll break after a couple dozen swaps.

[-] 4lan@lemmy.world 3 points 1 month ago

I couldnt do it! I bought a pack of volcano nozzles for dirt cheap in all sizes, volcano is forever!

[-] mavu@discuss.tchncs.de 3 points 1 month ago

this is cool!

[-] NaoPb@eviltoast.org 2 points 1 month ago

Pretty cool!

[-] clay_pidgin@sh.itjust.works 2 points 1 month ago

That looks great!

[-] daqu@feddit.org 2 points 1 month ago

Be careful with PLA in your car, it will probably deform in the sun.

[-] 4lan@lemmy.world 2 points 1 month ago

For sure! Luckily I park in an underground garage, so my car interior never really gets over 90

I have some PC just in case it does warp

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this post was submitted on 15 Aug 2024

359 points (98.6% liked)

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